July 29, 2019
Most people use some form of moisturiser, or are familiar with what it “does” i.e. moisturise the skin.
The composition of your skin’s outer layer – the stratum corneum – is affected by environmental factors, age, and even genetics. As you get older, your skin becomes more dry and less plump. Moisturising can help slow that process down. If you shave often or your face is otherwise irritated, your moisturiser can soothe or calm the skin as well.
There are actually 3 general types of moisturisers: oils, emulsions, or gel-based.
Lipids or botanical extracts mixed together with no presence of water.
Blend of water and oil, typically with a more milky/lotion like consistency. The term technically also includes more thick creams like foot creams.
*In the K-beauty world, emulsion is a term used to describe a specific ratio that’s more light/water-based.
Typically have no oils, but rather ingredients suspended in alcohol and water.
We can’t emphasize enough how much we think oils have changed our lives (smoother, more nourished and balanced skin). But during very hot summer days, some people prefer a more lightweight moisturiser.
This week, we’re diving into the ingredients of a commonly used one by L’Oreal Men Expert.
Helps make the moisturiser more lightweight and thin
Silicone that increases spreadability
Forms barrier over skin – some find it irritating/acne-causing because it can clog pores. It’s a controversial ingredient in ‘natural’ skincare.
Moisturiser and Humectant
Zea Mays Starch / Corn Starch
Skin conditioning or viscosity increasing agent
Gives silky feeling
Component of petroleum
Emulsifier – also thickens
Enables water and oil to mix
Humectant (hydrates the skin by preventing moisture loss)
Could be an allergen
Mentha Piperita Extract
Peppermint extract, refreshing and astringent
Emollient and thickening agent
Mixture of mineral oils derived from petroleum
Softens skin, thickens formulation
Humectant and skin conditioning
Sugar that helps skin retain moisture.
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion stabiliser and thickener
Enhances the skin’s absorption of other ingredients.
Made from sugar beets and coconut oil. Increases creaminess of creams/lotions.
Skin conditioning agent
Has antimicrobial efficacy.
Known to cause some irritation. Used for perfuming – has a camphor-life odor.
Betula Alba Juice
Birch extract – used for antioxidant and stringent properties
Butryospermum Parkii Seedcake Extract
Butylated hydroxytoluene, comes from Toluene (a type of crude oil). Some countries require health warnings to be listed when BHT or BHA (a chemical cousin) is used in food products. May cause endocrine disruption and dermatitis.
Vitamin E – skin conditioning
To prevent products from growing mould and bacteria. Restricted usage in some countries.
Linalool, Geraniol, Limonene, Hydroxycitronellal, Citral, Citronellol, Hexyl Cinnamal
When in quantities of .01% or greater, these fragrance components need to be listed out separately because the IFRA (International Fragrance Association) deems them to be allergens.
To prevent products from growing mould and bacteria
Parfum / Fragrance
Parfum is an all-encompassing term that can include 30-50 (or more) synthetic ingredients to add fragrance. Some people find it irritating on the skin
We’ve got 1 post left in our 6 part ‘Under the Cap’ series. Let us know if you’d like us to cover anything else in the comment below!
June 29, 2020
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