Aesop SPF 25 Facial Lotion: Under the Cap [Part 3]

July 01, 2019 4 Comments

We’re back with our third episode of ‘Under the Cap’! Click here for part 1 on Dove Soap and part 2 on Nivea Face Wash.

After a nice warm summer weekend in London, a sunscreen review is certainly in order. And while everyone knows you should wear sunscreen (see below), the complexity of choosing a good one is not lost on us. Physical vs. chemical, SPF number, white cast or not, it’s a confusing world out there.

➔ I'm still not convinced. Why should I wear sunscreen everyday?

Applying sunscreen prevents many bad things from happening (e.g. skin cancer, sun damage, sun burn), and is therefore one of the most critical steps in any skincare routine. You might be aware that 80-90% of skin aging comes from sun light, and UVA rays contribute significantly to signs of ageing and skin cancer. A quick refresher from school days: the sun transmits 3 types of ultraviolet radiation - UVA, UVB, and UVC rays. UVC rays are stopped by the ozone layer and don't penetrate the earth’s atmosphere, but UVA and UVB can affect our skin in dangerous ways if we are not careful.

Even if you have a darker skin tone and don’t show traditional signs of ‘sunburn,’ your skin might be hiding signs of skin cancer. You can read more about that here. 

➔ How should I choose one that’s right for me?

Whether you choose a chemical or a physical sunscreen, we recommend finding one that you feel comfortable applying every single day. This means if the white cast in a physical sunscreen means you’ll feel hesitant to use it on a normal working day, find a chemical one that works for you.

There are many different chemical ingredient options, each with a varying degree of ‘toxicity.’ You can refer to the EWG’s Sunscreen guide for more information: click here.

For this week’s Under the Cap, we chose to feature Australian brand Aesop’s new sunscreen. Aesop is famous for its stunning design, packaging, and unique in-store experience. While it has never claimed to be ‘natural,’ or ‘organic,’ many associate the company with these virtues. Below, we take a dive into the ingredients in its Protective Facial Lotion SPF 25.

AESOP PROTECTIVE FACIAL LOTION SPF 25

Just as you do when buying food, check the ingredients in your skincare products and make sure you’re aware of what you’re putting on your face. Take a look below! 

INGREDIENT	FUNCTION	THINGS TO CONSIDER
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
Homosalate (9% w/w)	Sunscreen ingredient	Known hormone disruptor for men and women. Found in mothers’ milk.
Octocrylene (7% w/w)	Sunscreen ingredient
Octyl Salicylate (4% w/w)	Sunscreen ingredient
Butyl Methoxy dibenzoylmethane (3% w/w)	Sunscreen ingredient	Also known as Avenobenzone, considered one of the less toxic chemical sunscreens
INACTIVE INGREDIENTS
Water Purified		Helps keep the texture of the sunscreen thinner so it applies more easily.
Coco-Caprylate	Emollient	Coconut-derivative that acts as an emollient and emulsifier. It improves the "glide" of products during application, and leaves a non-greasy soft after-touch.
Tribehenin PEG-20 Esters	Emollient/Emulsifier	PEG stands for polyethylene glycol - petroleum based compounds used as thickeners, and emulsifiers. Some people find PEGs irritating on broken or damaged skin, and studies show PEGs have estrogen-mimicking properties that can be associated with an increased risk of breast cancer.
Glycerol	Moisturiser/Humectant	Also known as glycerin, helps prevent moisture loss.
Silicon Dioxide	Thickening Agent	Silica is a mineral that can be found naturally or made synthetically.
Squalane	Moisturiser	A lipid that is found naturally in plants/animals, and the skin's sebum. Used to be taken from shark's liver, now olive oil is a common source. Squalene (with an 'e') is hydrogenised to make squalane.
Ethylhexylglycerin	Preservative
d-alpha-Tocopheryl Acetate, dl-alpha-tocopherol, beta-Tocopherol, delta Tocopherol, gamma-Tocopherol	Moisturiser	Different forms of Vitamin E; all very moisturising.
Soya Oil	Antioxidant	High in antioxidants, and a moisturising oil.
Dexpanthenol	Moisturiser	Converted to Vitamin B5
Lavandula Angustifolia Stem Oil
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer	Film Former	Increases viscosity and is used as a film former.
Rosemary Oil
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate	Skin Conditioning
Cellulose – Microcrystalline	Slip Modifier/Thickening Agent	Made from from refined wood pulp and used for many purposes in cosmetics/food industry, including thickening, texturising and bulking.
Sodium Hydroxide	pH Balancer	Highly alkaline ingredient which can be used in small amounts to hold the pH of an ingredient. (Sodium Hydroxide is also known as Lye. When used in soaps to turn oils into what we know as 'soap' - the sodium hydroxide is no longer present in the finished product and therefore not in the ingredients list).
Carmellose Sodium		Typically used in eye drops.
Sodium Carrageenan	Film Former/Thickening Agent	Gooey substance extracted from seaweed, then dried and powdered. When put in contact with liquid it rehydrates and can thicken.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract	Antioxidant	Green tea extract helps with inflammation and is an antioxidant.
Daucus Carota Root Extract	Antioxidant	Also known as the wild carrot, it can have antioxidant properties.
Sodium Chloride	Sea Salt
Lactic Acid
Carotenes	Antioxidant
Linalool, d-Limonene, Geraniol	Fragrance components	When in quantities of .01% or greater, these fragrance components need to be listed out separately because the IFRA (International Fragrance Association) deems them to be allergens.
Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate	Preservatives	To prevent products from growing mould and bacteria, preservatives in products are necessary. There is some controversy over the use of Phenoxyethanol.

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